December 31st - 2010

Here is the last group mail that I have sent out - seems that it hasn't reached all who it was meant to.

Happy New Year!!

Punta Arenas, December 23rd.

End of the trail.

After 17 months continues travel in southern direction I've reached the furthest I can go. Antarctica.

I made it here after a troublesome week and many strange stories – that only seem to have gotten stranger since my arrival. As no non military or non scientists are allowed here I have been staying at an air force base

in their "hostel", aka a bunk bed in a steel container, paying $87 pr night. Had to pretend I was on official work, however vague that might have been. I finally managed to make a connection to the local Russian base and am now living with a Russian orthodox priest and a monk. No

kidding! The monk is great and we are friends. Same for the priest, but all our communication is in a very broken Spanish covered in equally as confusing Russian and Danish accents.

It was very expensive getting here and I considered selling my kidney to the Russians. But I reached my goal and the past week has brought much good work. The scenery is like a dream. Penguins get top rating for performance. I’m sure there’s a little human stuck inside their small birdlike bodies.

I will save further details for another time. I could have wished or dreamt of no better way for this journey to conclude. Antarctica has been the inspiration for the overall trip and motor behind the planning which began three years ago. It had lost none of its magic since my first visit in 07 and leaves me, craving once again to return.

I got back to Punta Arenas a yesterday and will spend Christmas by a campfire in a park not to far from here. My bag is packed with a dehydrated reindeer meal that I’ve been saving for an emergency or special occasion.

With an expected return to Denmark in February, post production will begin, hopefully revealing work which resembles the experience of the last year and a half.

As mentioned many times before, I am forever grateful for all the support I've received from everyone. I can not express my appreciation through words, but hope our paths may cross soon again - you are all close to my heart.

I wish you merry holidays and all the best in the coming year!

Sincerely, Adam

December 22nd - 2010

I've been told that a plane will land around noon today - this may be my ticket back to the mainland if I'm lucky. But they arrive early and I'm still in bed when I hear the deep hum above. S***!! I thrown on my jack, plastic bags in my soaked boots and speed out the house. At the airport I meet the captain of the aircraft and am told that I need to speak with another person who decides on who get on. I'm told that there is room and as I've already have a paid return off the island it should no be a problem - that is if I can be ready in 15 min!
It takes 15 min just to get to the Russian base from the airport not to mention I still havent packed or said goodbye to Safroni and Palledyi. I can make it.
Fortunately a Russian car is picking supplies up at the plane and offers to drive me. Its the translator from yesterday. He too apologizes for the treatment that I have to pay, assuring me that this is not Russian hospitality - but Victor is the boss.
Back at the house I throw my things into my two packs. We drive to find Safroni and Palledyi so I can say goodbye. The are working, painting the underside of a lab dressed in workmans clothes. I usually only see the Father in his long black cloak. I apologize for this sudden departure, bowing and doing everything possible to express my appreciation for their kindness in the 90 sec I have before the translator yells that we have to go if I am to make the flight.
So this is how my trip will end?! Bowing to a russian orthodox priest dressed in workmans clothes. The beauty of the our random world...
Back at the plane I'm welcomed with the words - "velkommen ombord" - in danish! What the!! Turns out the pilot is from the Faroe Islans and speaks fluent Danish!!! The flight is empty. Completely empty. Returning to the mainland and the end of my journey. Very confused....

December 21st - 2010

Victor, the Russian chief meets me with a stone face and firm handshake. I'm told to sit down! Yes. A translator is brought in. I'm asked the questions I expect and explain. There is a mutual understanding, Victor is upset that I've not been introduced to him, not so much with me as with Father Safroni. Back and forth, the meeting ends with economy - that Victor want me to pay for staying. Of course. The ice has melted and Victor gives a large smile and equally as firm handshake, before saying that, "that is all"

Safroni is very upset afterwards, saying that this is not Russian hospitality and not the way he would ever have done. However I have to agree with the chief as this is a base and what I could have expected. The only problem being that Victors suggested price pr night will only make it possible for me to stay one more night.

Back at the house Palladyi is even more upset then Safroni, apologizing for this treatment. He brings me chicken from the kitchen and offers to borrow me money should it be necessary.

A Brazilian air force supply plane lands in the afternoon. I run to the airport to ask if there I place for me, but am told that they are full - perhaps tomorrow.

I go for a very long hike - further then I've been so far. Sun breaks the clouds as I'm making my way back.

December 20th - 2010

Apparently there has been some confusion regarding my stay at the base. The Russian chief is apparently very upset because I've not been introduced to him and has called for a meeting in the morning. I've only done what Safroni and my friend has told - to keep a low key. But this now seems to have backfired... I will try to organize an earlier return depending on the outcome tomorrow. It will be ok if I have to return as I feel that I've got allot of good work done and I'm running low on film.

December 19th - 2010

Moving day. My bags are packed and I've paid the bill. At 4 I will go to the Russian base.

Safroni bid me welcome as the other day. I've been shown my room which I will be sharing with one other person staying in the house. I'm sorry for intruding, but have only been met with smiles and told to feel at home. So I did.

I sat in the kitchen biting some bread when Palladyi arrived. He too works as a carpenter, but is also a monk from a famous monastery outside of Moscow. His English is very good and we've sat chatting for hours. He's been cooking some foreign looking buckwheat and making the greatest tea in ages.

At around midnight we go for a walk together. Its snowing with winds from the northwest. A great night for pictures - if all has gone well with the film and exposure then these may be the ones which make the trip.

Russia, monks and Antarctica.

My cot is very comfortable and I have a great sleep.

December 18th - 2010

Nearly got myself into trouble today. Word was out that a Hercules plane was due to land and therefore I went out to look - within long a man looking very official approached me, asking who I was and what I was doing. He introduced himself as the chief of the airforce base :(

I explained in a few words as possible, telling him that I was staying with the airforce and was very excited about the Hercules ?

A man called as the plane was approaching and our conversation ended - the largest plane on the shortest runway broke through the clouds, touching down moments later. I filmed.

The weather has been rough and perfect today. Following my little episode I figured it was probably best not to stick around too long, so I packed my goods and headed out for a long hike. I wasent back till midnight.

Setting my camera up on the beach I suddenly heard a large quack from my foot - looking down at a penguin standing next to me looking up. Great. Suppose he was asking what I was doing...

The hike brought little useful images...

December 17th - 2010

Beautiful day - clear skies.

I hike to the westen part of the island - looking to the icecovered Nelson Island. Boil water on my homemade alco stove and make noodle soup, before the 2 hr. return. Didn't shoot many pictures today. Clouds had drifted in and winds picked up by the time I was back at the base.

December 16th - 2010

I spent the greater part of the day waiting for the weather to change. Its been overcast and grey. The forecast has mentioned that it will begin snowing tonight. I will wait around for this.

After a few hours just sitting here and waiting I finally got enough - also I don't want to risk anyone coming by and asking questions about which organization I'm from or what my purpose of being here is - so I left for a hike to the south side of the island. This is one of the most polluted places in all Antarctica with four large rusting oil tanks, deteourating with every passing winter. Three penguins down by the beach seemed quite tense. I returned "home" to cook dinner.

It began snow at 10pm. The landscape transforming into that of a dream. It would be impossible to express how this place effects you - but you will never be quite the same once you have set foot on this strange land. Its a feeling which runs very deep and very still. Despite the pollution and sad looking research bases this place swings to a different beat then any place I've ever set foot. It is what originally inspired me to do this trip all together - visiting it 4 years ago - and it relieves me to experience that the feeling is still there, still as strong.

I have difficulty sleeping once I return to the barrack - thoughts speeding away - wishes that this wont be my last visit.

December 15th - 2010

It was 2:30 am before I returned last night. I'm the only staying at the barrack - this gives keeps me calm and my nerves at rest. The sun was shining through my window when I woke, despite it still being quite early. I had to go to the "office" of my friend to pick up snow shoes before his colleagues turned up. By 9 am I was heading back out over the snow and lifeless rocks. I fear that I could be send back to the Punta Arenas any moment and therefore try to make the most out of the time I have here.

The hike today led to the northern side of Collins Glacier, which spills into the ocean. The beaches up here are covered with spread out seals and sea cows and penguins. I fell that I've got some good work done. The only problem being that both of my boots have begun leaking and seem to be falling apart - a problem which will keep me from accessing parts that will take days to hike to. This problem comes at the worst possible time.

My friend got in touch and told me that we had a meeting at 7pm with the priest. I've picked up a few items for him in Punta Arenas. Apart from being a priest he also works as a carpenter, and had run out of some parts. Safroni met us at the door with a long orthodox beard and a larger smile. He lives in a red box barrack which dosent look like much from the outside - but once you step through the door you enter Russia. A warm inviting house with guest shoes, full wooden walls and peace. At the heart of the house is the kitchen. Here there is a bench around a large table, where russian bread and goods are spread out. We drink tea.

Safroni thanked me for the things I have brought. We speak in broken Spanish, at times translated by my friend who speaks fluent English, Spanish and Russian. I am invited to stay at the house. I will move here in a few days.

We have dinner at the base, 40 Russians, 4 Germans and allot of borsch.

Could I've dreamt this up?¿

December 14th - 2010

After a very hectic day yesterday I finally managed to make the last arrangements and payment for my departure. A bit sketchy, yes, but I'm here!! I don't know what I would have done had I know it would be this nerve wrecking - surely grey hairs are seeping though my scalp as I type these words.

To make a long story short, you are not allowed to visit, by international law, any part of Antarctica without authorisation from a scientific organisation or military - this has been the bottomline making my trip here so difficult to arrange. I was fortunate to get in touch with a person down here a few days before my planed departure. INACH the Chilean Antarctic organisation who previously promised to vouch for me, pulled the plug at the last moment. It left me stranded with my only choice to ask my contact if he could help me out - despite taking a great risk by sticking his head out without knowing me, he managed to arrange a place for me to sleep and a cover that I could use. As he has contact with the Russian base and the air force down here he arranged for me to spend the first five day at the air force base and the remaining time with the Russian priest. This all sounds very confusing and strange, and believe me it is... My cover of the day is that I'm danish but speak no english - I can also pretend to be Russian if I wish...

I'm gonna put my things in my barrack and go for a hike to avoid having to run into anyone. The sun seems only to touch the horizon before begining its climb back up. Night time is beautiful, cold and calm. I will go to the beach and outlook to the Drake Passage.

Here. Finally here!!!

November 18th - December 13th

Apologies for this VERY late post. Can't blame it on lack of connection, but rather a standby period with limited action...

I'm in Punta Arenas, and have been here for three weeks now - waiting. Waiting for all pieces to fall in place allowing me to begin the final chapter and move south. However this has proven as difficult as I had feared, with very limited traffic to the ice and even more limited if your not a scientist, in the navy or a millionaire. I can brag of none of the above and must wait in line like everyone else who is enthusiastic about reaching Antarctica.

To make it more difficult my project requires more time then is given if I was to part take in any of the organized tours that run of out Punta Arenas. They allow visitors to spend one to two day maximum before being flown back to the mainland. I need at least two weeks to be sure that I can get any work done. Weather can be rough and I may spend many days locked down. I've approached the Chilean Antarctic Institute and been granted permission to visit their base, this will buy me more time - however it does not include any form of transport.

I've been in touch with the one airline that transports goods and personnel to the basses. Two weeks later, I'm still waiting to get a confirmation - all indications show this confirmation may come through tonight, with possible departure tomorrow. My bags are packed - 5 home made stoves (can't bring or get gas for the one I have), 2 liters of alcohol to burn, 14 packs of noodles, 700g dark chocolate, 2kg nuts, plaster for a Russian artist, tent and sleeping bag...

But my time here in Punta Arenas has not been completely wasted. My friend Drew came to visit on his way back from a nearby park. I've taken a few multiday trip to another park not far from the city. Just a few hours from downtown and its back in the wilderness. These trips give peace and patience.

So xing my fingers for tonight, tomorrow and the weeks to come. Update to follow.

Images are a mix from the past weeks - including Oden, the icebreaker I traveled to the North Pole with. Yes they also passed by Punta Arenas - left for Antarctica. I still wonder why I'm not onboard...

x

November 18th - December 13th

November 18th - December 13th

November 17th - 2010

Hiked 10 km out of town without a single car stopping. Wind has been furious so I decided to return to town, perhaps better trying my luck at the bridge. The first car heading back to town stopped. Inside was an italian man and his swiss wife - heading to El Chalten, for only an hour before returning the direction I was trying to get to. They offered to pick me up when heading back.

We pulled into El Calafate around 16:00. Said our goodbyes having talked the whole way from El Chalten. Olive oil, how to make homemade tomato sauce, Winterthur, photoalbums.

Felt no need to stay in this hub for Torres Del Pains so I walked directily to the bus station and found the first ticket out. I was planing to go to Puerto Nathales or Punta Arenas but they werent leaving till the following day. Instead I bought a ticket and was soon on my way to Rio Gallegos...?¿....

Four hours later I was checking into a backroom of Hostaria El Tucka. Here were two beds and the option someone might show up to occupy the other one.

I was sitting with a needle and thread fixing my tent when it knocked on the door.

His name was german he was heading north with his skatboard.

November 16th - 2010

This winds which are notorious in this area - bagan picking up during the night. My tent was soon filled with dust despite having built a fortress of logs around the edges. It was still very windy when I woke in the morning. The rain had ceased so I saw my opportunity to return to the glacier from last night. I'd spotted at place much closer then where I'd sat yesterday.

Unfrotunately the constant winds and powerful gusts made it difficult to even walk. After climbing up through a forest and over boulders the size of houses I found the spot. But the winds made it impossible to shoot anything in the direction I had intended.

I climbed down another path then where I'd come up - sheltered from the gusts. On a sandy patch on the boundary between the forest and a marshland were tracks from a large cat. Sat waiting to catch a glimps - no luck.

Tonight I´m back in the yard in El Chalten. My camera needs cleaning.

November 15th - 2010

Nothing much to report from camp. I´ve stayed in the bag most of the day. Winds and rain has been on and off.

Later this afternoon I hiked to a glacier an hour and half from here. This trail is much less beaten then the one yesterday. At times difficult finding the way. But the reflecting light from the ice leads the way. You are met by the overwhelming view of this monster of ice spilling down from the icefields high above. I set my gear up, overlooking the lake. A wind gust carried my raincover into the boulders far below. Managed to retrieve it and hiked back to camp.

Being in these sourounding feels at home. I regret my timelimit and the need of having to contineu tomorrow. This is perhaps the biggest mistake with this project - the constant moving to reach my goal.

November 14th - 2010

Its not a very difficult hike to the base camp from El Chalten. It does however become a bit more strenious when you have to keep conversation with a talkative Argentinian - but he was friendly and good company.

Once on the plateau below the Fitz Roy towers I set camp and waited for the sun to sink and the crowds I imagined to descend. From camp its about an hour to Laguna Los Tres, a frozen bowl with views of two major glaciers. My timing had been good as the last hikers were going the opposite way when I began climbing.

I stayed till past sunset and began my descent outfittet with my headlamp, taking one carefull step after another to care for the knee.

The knee is still an issue. Perhaps due to lack of resting and from the heavy pack. But swelling is gone and it all looks normal. My thoughs are these: Better to use the leg and strengthen the thigh then weaken it from inactivity. An excuse to continue on. Yes I will rest later.

November 13th - 2010

I caught the ferry to the access road leading to El Chalten. The first passing car was kind to stop for me. In the back sat a young boy between waterbottels and luggage while a large man, resembling a stranded whale lay spead out on the limited avalibel space there was left. Need not say that they were surprised when I jumped in to join them. The boy was kind, talkative and cared less for my lack on speaking propper spanish. The man stayed quiet and stranded. I would soon learn that he suffered from motion sickness.

Making stops every mile to let him relieve himself over the side, we soon made it to El Chalten. A small town transformed to a seassonal climbing mecca. My tent is pitched in a small yard of a climbing guide hostel. Tomorrow I will move to the mountains.

November 12th - 2010

Two french cyclists who I'd been hanging out with in O'Higgins were on the same boat as I - doing the same hike - having to push their bike on longer distances. Today I have no sentimental feeling regarding my own bike.

We had lunch together, before they continued on the better part of the stretch. We would meet up later that evening as we descende down to the last lake on the Argentinian side where passport were stamped. The magnificant view of Fitz Roy, as it had been seen all day long was now the last place were the rays shun before the stars came out.