April 15th, 2010

Have spent a few days in San Francisco, winding down from the coast chapter, and slowly prepping for the next stage. SF has been amazing and my heart has unexpectedly been sold to the city... The weather certainly has added to the vibe with cloudless days and warm temperatures since crossing the Golden Gate. But also the size, diversity and ease of getting around makes me more fond with every passing day. I've been taken very well care of and have lived in luxury since I got here.

I processed and scanned film from the previous month - see below.

Tomorrow I take a short break as I must leave the country in order to renew my US visa. I'll be away for two weeks before reentering in early May. I look forward to the deserts, canyons and the clear Southwest sky.

out.

April 12th, 2010

Seeing San Francisco, 7 weeks after leaving Seattle - by the bike trails, cross the train yard and down to the ferry from where the city became a memory and a name that has been repeated daily when asked where I've been riding from. Arriving in San Francisco feels like the completion of a small circle within the larger one. New chapters awake. Time has become an abstract concept, but arriving here makes me reflect if I should have produced more then I have in the period? perhaps. But the work I have done has been genuine and I hope quality will reflect this.

I visited the Marin Headlands hostel just over a year ago, when taking a first aid course in preparation for the trip. Feels great to be back - never imagined I'd be arriving on bike though. Checked in and rode down to the beach to watch the sunset. A surfer tried his best, but the sea was a mess this evening - aftershock of the storm still in the waves.

April 11th, 2010

A strange night with heavy winds and rain shaking the trailer. Woke from a dream of a picture I have to take. In dreamworld the image was so obvious and necessary that I got my notebook to jot down the description and how to light it. This only brought on more ideas and before I knew it I was full awake. Sleep finally caught up with me again. Next time I woke the rain was still coming down. Bob knocked at 8:30 saying that breakfast would be served in a half hour. I enjoyed a good meal and good company.

It was still pouring by the time I was on the road. The Hostel, where I was heading, is only about 8 miles out of town in the Point Reyes National Park - but crossing the high ridge takes time, and all the rain wasn't helping out. Riding downhill was like going through a shower at 30 mph. There wasn't a dry spot left by the time I arrived. To matters worse, the hostel was closed, not opening for another two hours. Drenched, cold and fear of hypothermia, I found a doorway where I could take shelter, and put on a dry shirt.

4:30 rolled around and out came the owner - admitting that she'd know I'd been sitting in the rain the last few hours - but that it wasn't her problem. I'm usually very calm and collected, but her attitude got the best of me. After telling her my point of view with clenched teeth the bad vibes haunted me the rest of the day. Convinced that I should complain to someone - something I have still to do.

I took a walk around sunset to get my mind off things - returned to the hostel and chatted with some of the guests. Tomorrow I'll move on to Marin Headlands.

April 10th, 2010

An otherwise ordinary day. Sun didn't shine much - likewise the landscape lay in a gray cloud of fog and light rain. Winds were mostly against me, but fortunately far less aggressive then anticipated. Day began with a good climb, passing Fort Ross before continuing to the rim high above the ocean. Due to the poor weather the view was limited and cool air cooled me down quickly once stopped.

There is a fair amount of traffic as San Francisco is in range for weekend getaways. Bikes are becoming more common on the road, and waving to each other as we pass is the thing to do.

There hasn't been much to look at apart for vultures enjoying roadkill, a Corvette get together and a handful of surfers in the bays.

It's likely to be the weather, but the county of Sonoma and Marin are in no comparison to that on Mendocino - at least the part following the Ocean.

Ate a cookie outside the grocery store in Valley Ford, looking at a very soft dog with different colored eyes. There was a pay phone. I called the hostel in Point Reyes to find out they were all sold out for the night - not good as this is the only affordable place in the area. I pulled into town around 6:30. I figured the old tavern might point me in the right direction of a place to stay. The bartender did his best, but also his suggestions were full with weekend guests. If it wasent for the storm warning I'd have no problem pitching my tent. I stepped outside to consider my options when two smokers came out as well. We started talking, and the woman, having had just the right amount of alcohol, yelled to the guy on the opposite side of the road, picking up dinner at a taco truck - "you look like a guy who can help this biker out with a place to stay for the night..?!?" Situation was turning from bad to embarrassing. But to my surprise the man nodded at the strange and unexpected inquiry. Turned out he did have room. Bob is his name. Owns horses and there was a trailer to spare - all set up with a bed, bathroom and kitchen. We spoke little and I was invited to join him for breakfast at his house in the morning. I stood awestruck by the kindness in my home for the night. Seemed the efforts of this otherwise ordinary day were all worth while. The storm hit around 2 am.

April 9th, 2010

Mendocino County. I passed the stunning land of bluffs, cliffs and high pastures, green as memory with cattle grazing free above the coast overlooking the Pacific. A place I could call home - the area I'd hoped to find and which my intuition had told me would be somewhere in California. Seemingly unspoiled, with open land and little development - towns are few and scattered. Unfortunately it was passed all to quickly - making the most of the great weather and tail wind. A storm is coming in, suppose to make landfall by Saturday or Sunday. It will bring lots of rain and winds are suppose to turn, coming strong from the south. Therefor I've decided to make it as far south as possible today and tomorrow - hopefully reaching Point Reyes by tomorrow evening. Legs feel good, and as long as I keep the burritos coming for lunch then the many miles shouldn't be a problem.

Today I saw a bobcat, deer and vultures crossing the road. A day I wish to play over and over again.

April 8th, 2010

Back on the coast - climbed the highest peak thus far, crossing over the Legget pass - a winding road that seems to have no end, connecting highway 101 to the source of the 1. A few days ago this area was covered in snow, but the mild temperature today had left only small puddles. It was an extensive ascent, but as alway the fear is worse then reality. Back on the Shoreline Highway, a strong wind was blowing from the north - gusts up to 39mph. It made for a very comfortable ride, like having a small engine strapped to the bike. Legs much better today.

Set camp at Van Damm State Park.

April 7th, 2010

My blissful night under the canopy came to a sudden stop as I was woken by the god awful scream of what sounded like the lost spirit of some lunatic woman wandering through the woods - screaming small bursts of insanity as she went along. The first cry came not far from where I lay, but then slowly drifted further into the darkness and eventually fading out.

I was later told this may be the sound of the gray fox - I believe not. This was the sound of the Dark Angle...

When I woke the next time, the sun was shining and the forest awake again with life and color. Temperatures crept raising as the day passed hitting highs of 80 degrees. Shirt came off as did helmet. I know this is a bad idea, especially still riding where cars can be present, but I figured it wouldn't hurt just this once. A few minuets passed and the first corner turned when I heard the screeching noise of a car locking it's breaks. It was a long screech. Long enough for me to get off the bike, look back and see a white Acura turned sideways, continuing into the ditch. Behind the wheel sat a twenty something woman in shock. Apparently going to fast round the corner, and had gotten freaked out be me, my bike and pale pale back. With the help of a few other passer byre's were were able to push her back on the road. No one hurt. My helmet back on head and continuing down the road again. There were no camps grounds in reaching distance, and the deep woods are now behind me, so I've taken shelter on a small driveway that looks like it hasn't been used for some time.

April 6th, 2010

And so I left Arcata. On the road by 10:30. Its less then ten miles to Eureka, but my legs began cramping up just as I turned the corner. I knew it was going to be a long day. 90 minuets later I got to Eureka - legs in a ridicules shape, bordering to the non-working. The cramping forcing me off the bike to stretch every 500 meters. Once one leg was fit to go the other would start up - a fuc**ng joke! This has lasted all day - my pain tolerance pushed further then I thought it would. Despite this complication the day has passed quickly.

Luckily the wind was with me and I managed to cover 64 miles. Weather has been great and the hills few. The town of Ferndale a victorian movie set, cow and grass covered fields as far as the eye can see, mountains white with snow as I made my way to Del Rio.

Tonight I sleep by Avenue of the Giants amongst the redwoods. It looks to be a clear night, so I wont bother pitching the tent.

ps. Also had my first flat today- an easy fix. Hope my legs will cooperate tomorrow...

April 5th, 2010

What should been a day of departure was hit by the Arcata time phenomenon and I see myself spending yet another night here. The morning passed with practicalities - post office, waterproofing my gear and doing the last shopping. It was past noon before I was done. The charm and appeal of the town made me look at my schedule a second time and realize that another day could be spent here.

Bryce got home from the university at 3 and we went to play disc golf. The same concept as regular golf, except in plays out in the woods using frisbees...yes.

Legs have begun cramping again. Felt like a bat was hit across my thighs. Seems to be especially bad after having rested a few days. I limped out of the course - back home burgers were cooked. Tomorrow I really need to leave!

April 4th, 2010

The days in Arcata have a slow incline but seem to last forever. It looked gloomy with freak rain showers and rumors of snow having fallen during the day. The hills higher up are covered, but the afternoon seemed to clear a bit. Once again we packed the car - today driving to the Jetty - the inlet to Arcata Bay. The swells ride the wall as you walk on the jetty extending far and low into the sea - praying no rough waves role in.

Took a bypass tour through Eureka seeing the old district with the impressive victorian homes. Its 3 am and Bryce is still in the kitchen??? Think he's cooking rice?!? Had a late dinner of great homemade mexican food. I feel far from the woods, having only just left. Tomorrow I move south. 10 days to get to San Francisco.

April 3rd, 2010

Packed my freak of a tent, from a failed attempt to dry it, and checked out of the Fair Winds Motel. Next stop Bryce and Madaly's house - new friends I'd meet a few weeks back in Oregon. I looked them up when I got in last night and will likely be spending the a few days here.

Dropped my bags off and went to a local cafe to do some work. Arcata has an inviting charm that makes me appreciate civilization.

Later in the afternoon we loaded up the car with friends and a frisbee and drove north to Trinidad - parked and hiked out to Elk Head. The weather is still unstable and the waves of a storm father out came crashing in. My bed in a soft couch - glad to be indoor tonight.

April 2nd, 2010

Not the most memorable day of riding.

It began raining during the night and didn't clear up till late in the afternoon.

Fortunately the wind was partially in my back giving me a good push.

Passing Trinidad, the 101 turned into a freeway with more traffic and more speed.

Arrived in Arcadia just before all the shops closed. Found a bike store where I will get a new bike computer tomorrow. The one I have, has not approved of all the rain.

From what I've seen it seems a nice town, with nice sun sets.

April 1st, 2010

The simplicity of my cooking is actually quite tasty. Oats with apricots, cinnamon and agave sirup. As long as I keep moving and my metabolisms is up then even the plainest of food is delicious.

I left camp after lunch to walk to Miners Ridge trail. Far less inspiring then yesterdays hike, but a few good surprises. " far less inspiring" is not really a fair term to use in any part of these woods.

It was dark again as I returned to my tent. I'm considering getting up during the night to see if the moon is out and strong. It will rise just before midnight, so I will set my alarm for 3 am.

Tomorrow it's said to begin raining again. I expect to pack up and move toward Arcata.

Today I finished my book. The Confederate General of Big Sur. I also burned a hole in my down jacket.

March 31st, 2010

It was a good climb on the 101 to the Elk Prairie exit. Also from here was a decent ascent. As long as the surface is fairly stable and I can get my breathing under control then everything seems to be alright. peddle peddle peddle breath peddle peddle peddle breath peddle peddle peddle breath peddle peddle peddle breath and up I go.

Descending I saw another bicyclist standing by the side of the road. Bob. His first day of riding, heading to San Francisco. Bob looked to be retired with grey hair spill out under his helmet. Clearly take by the giants as I approached him. He was kind and we continued down the scenic route together a few miles. It was good with company as long as it lasted.

Having set camp at Prairie Creek I set off on a hike. A 12 mile loop, suppose to go through a canyon - but the canyon was flooded. I was forced to take an alternative route. It was dark by the time I made my way back.

Its about 11:30 p.m now and the moon has just risen. I should be out but am in the sleeping bag instead. Very tired and sore body. It feels lazy to not being out at every chance I have.

Will stay here tomorrow as well. A new month to come.

March 30th, 2010

I moved on to Klamath today, leaving Jedeia behind.

Had a last hike on the ramaining trail I wanted to see in this area.

The first part of the road from the park and back to the 101 is a dirt - with the prvious days rain it left the surface feeling like glue on my tires.

The temperature was low and it soon began hailing.

No cramps but I do wish for some sunshine soon.

March 29th, 2010

Rain.

With winds picking up during the night - tearing branches off the giants above. Small sticks come falling down striking my tent and picking at my nerves. It mostly passed as I turned pages in my book, having decided that going outside would be most disrespectful to the last bit of dry skin I have left. The rain seemed to have no end, swinging from regular monsoon to that which is worse. I knew that a move was inevitable, if nothing else then to relieve a stressed bladder and to pay for another night.

Break in the weather came around 3 p.m.. I walked to the booth payed my $5, chatted for three minuets and returned to camp. As the skies were still fair I decided to cook. But my propane ran dry before the water could boil.

The host - now formally known as Bones - is a collector. He told me so last night when we talked by his trailer. He told me of all the things people leave behind - tarps, tents, sleeping bags, full camping kits. Having head this I figured he may be the man with propane. The trailer was dark but a tv or radio was running. I knocked and stepped back. No one answered. At the entrance booth works his wife. She didn't believe to have seen any propane laying around. Bones turned up shortly, confirming no propane, but invited me for mexican in town at 4:30 p.m.. He also told me worse weather was coming and I might want to consider getting out from under the trees. This left me with an hour to pack up and move some place more protected.

The overhang by the restrooms - my refuge. Unheated, and open to 3 out of 4 sides, but at least there is a roof above, stronger then the tissue my tent is made of.

We had mexican. Bones spoke of his time in the navy.

Thunder and lightning as I feel asleep.

March 28th, 2010

The rain began during the night. It has continued all through the morning, across noon and is coming down even greater this evening. The tent is semi proof with water seeping through the seems.

After a late start of the day I left for the Simpson Reed trail. It is a few miles west of camp and was a very positive surprise. I must have shot at least 20 shots today - so for a day of taking it easy this turned just the opposite. Despite the many pictures, the trail system is fairly small and allowed me good time to explore the limited area. As you leave the trail, a sign reads "remember to be thankful for having such forests to visit." This is true. The American park system is one of the greatest hits this nation has produced.

Camping is just getting by on a night like tonight. I don't particularly like having wet clothes to wake up to - or to be this exposed - but things could be worse. A cabin would be ideal - a place I'd imagine staying for longer periods of time.

Still getting cramps easily - not sure of the cause.

March 27th, 2010

The camp host had left a note for me when I woke at ten. Thank you for paying, but if your planning to stay another night you will need to move your camp to the hiker/biker section. And so I did. This being the first major accomplishment of the day - packing everything down and out again a 1/4 mile down the line. But the new site is more secluded, no generators running or people freaking out in their tent as I pass with a tripod on my back in the middle of the night. I was set up between three giants and ate my noodles by 1 p.m.. I spoke with a park ranger about crossing the near by river and about my work - shooting a night. She asked if I was cautions of the mountain lions as there were many - conversation left me feeling like steak. The first aid kit was reevaluated from being left in the tent also my knife got a ticket to come along. The hike was about 12 miles into real redwood territory. I have been hoping to do monumental work in respect for the grandness of these trees and world around them, but I fear my time is limited and it would take months to fully capture a fragment of what they have to offer - to understand how I could incorporate and adapt them into my work. This lack is very frustrating. Since arriving the main focus has been on getting images and not simply observing. Tomorrow they promise rain, and I will take it a bit easier.