May 29th, 2010

Larson family gathering!

Pancakes, bacon, eggs, sanwiches and ham.

Fire, smoke and marshmallows. Lucky to be part.

May 28th, 2010

I knew I'd have to be very luck to make it all the way to White Sands NM by tonight, and as the day took another unexpected turn I went with the flow.

The Larson family is having a huge family gathering at their cabin this weekend. I was invited and offered a ride to New Mexico on Sunday. And so it came to be that I'm spending the night in the mountains, camped out under the pines and stars with new friends.

Mons had planned for us; himself, his two sons, Kyle and Bryce and myself to go bike riding on a trail in the mountains before going to the cabin. We got to the trail head around 8. It was dark and the whole ride was done flashlights and moonlight. We rode to a view point overlooking the valley below, extending all the way to Mexico. The moonlight makes it look like daytime.

May 27th, 2010

The only way I'll make it to New Mexico on time is with a little help. An little was all there was - about 30 miles down the road in the back of an old Chevy. Still have 170 to go. Stood waiting in the burning sun for about a half hour before deciding to move on by myself. Temperature reached 107. Kept pouring water over and in me but it all seemed to evaporate as soon as it hit.

Arriving to Safford it getting dark. I'd decided to camp at a local park just out of town, but before I made the turn Mons T. Larson stopped me and offered his yard. Apparently something he'd done before with other passing tourers. How the oranges keep falling in my turban...

The Larsons live on a farm a few miles east of Safford - a large family - kind as ever. I was fed, showed where I could camp and taken scorpion hunting. I though I'd sleep under the stars, but when I saw how these critters live in all the trees around I pitched my tent.

May 26th, 2010

Another day without reference to anything I could have imagined.

I've been feeling the stress of time passing as it's getting closer to full moon (only two days left) and aprox 300 miles to where I want to be for that evening. Also my childhood friend, David is in Phenix today and we've discussed meeting tonight. We agreed on a place called Globe. I was going to ride from Snowflake, but soon discovered there was a huge canyon which had to be crossed and would likely end up taking two days. Heather Brimhall offered to drive me - I declined - she insisted. With an offer this tempting I soon accepted and the car was packed, with kids, dusty bike and bags.

The place to camp in Globe is an ATW trail system. Luckily it was quiet most of the day. I sat cleaning the dust from the storm out of my equipment and waited for David to arrive. An accident on the highway had held him up and it was dark by the time he found my hideaway. A surreal experience of meeting here in this place neither of us ever imagined or knew existed not to mention ever hanging out here. It was awesome seeing him. He's been involved in this journey since the beginning as he was the first person I told about my plans, two years ago. We've been getting in trouble and slowly growing up together since the 3rd grade. Despite living very different lives on day to day basis its like being with a brother every time I see him. He returned to the city around midnight and I to my fire to take a few pictures.

May 25th, 2010

So it isn't just the roads on the res that are long and straight. Left the Navajo nation and reentered Arizona. Covered 82 miles from Greasewood to Snowflake where I stay tonight. Passed the petrified forest, Woodruff where I refilled H2O, continued on dirt roads, past a small river where I had a dip, meet a hiker going the opposite direction, was struck by a dust devil and finally pulled into Snowflake as the sun was setting. A local suggested I go to the police station to find a place to sleep (what exactly he meant by this I don't know..) but I was lucky to run into the Brimhalls, before I turned myself in. They offered their yard to camp in. We had dinner together and I enjoyed their company. I meet their two small children.

The yard was upgraded to a huge guest room with a very soft bed. thankyouthankyouthankyou.

May 24th, 2010

Finally the winds have settled. A beautiful day for riding. The roads on the reservation are long and straight. Traffic is minimal and is other signs of life.

Images; looking north to south/south to north.

May 23nd, 2010

Moms birthday. The whole family was gathered at home when I called - got to see and talk with all. Almost like being there. Even grandmother sat in awe and watched the magic of Skype.

Outside the storm raged on - nothing much to do but stay put. It's beginning to stress me out a bit as the full moon is coming and I hope have clear skies for shooting.

May 22nd, 2010

Heavy winds began blowing last night. It's lasted all day making it impossible to set up the one-pole tent. Mads dropped me off in Chinle. After a failed attempt to set camp I decided to stay at the local inn. A wise choice as winds only picked up - 55-60 mph winds. I rode to town to pick up my new camera which had been sent to the local post office. A mask has been necessary to keep the fine particles out. But despite this I still find my breathing to be restricted. Stayed indoor most of the day. Wandered out to see the sunset over some sand dunes near by. Perhaps not the smartest place to go in a sandstorm - my other camera acting funny now....

May 21st, 2010

Bluff, Utah.

Mads's aunt and uncle live just outside Bluff - the small dry town surrounded by ancient rock-art and hidden cliff dwellings.

We were bid welcome with lunch before a tour of the area. Mads's uncle knows all the spots to view the ancient culture with a burning heart for it. Going down a dirt road in the back of a pickup, everything the color of sand - the baking sun above and soft cliffs and canyons to the sides. Suddenly we break. "Up there - below and to the left of that peak". To the naked eye I see nothing but a barren landscape - rock and suffering bushes. Handed a pair of binoculars I point them in the direction. And like a chameleon disguised in jungle, an ancient dwelling comes into view.

We were guided into a canyon that ends in a cull de sac, here too is another dwelling, but this one we can walk right up a touch. Corn cobs over a thousand years old are still on the ground. The walls of the canyon painted with images depicting animals, humans and plants. But the most impressive are the hand prints - perfectly shaped prints, the size of a child's hand - having been dunked in a bucked of paint and placed on the wall - a relic so familiar and common. Strange feeling of deja vu.

May 20th, 2010

Another missing image - laundry in Tuba City, Mads and I driving toward Mexican Hat, the sand colored tepee and local steak house.

Mads my old friend from Denmark, now living in LA pulled into the parking lot where we'd planned to meet around 3 p.m.. We were on the road toward his uncle and aunt shortly after. Bike fitting like a glove in the back of the hybrid Honda. Stopped in Kayenta for a short break before continuing. A black metal navajo band was getting ready to play a show at the local culture center. It was soon dark at we had a ways to go.

Made it to Mexican Hat, where, after viewing all the local motels found one where the room was a tepee. yes. Two six packs of ale and there was a lot of talking and catching up to do. Way past my normal camp-side bedtime before I closed my eyes.

May 19th, 2010

Woke this morning around 4, went for a short walk around and a few pictures. Slept another hour before finally packing and leaving.

Compleated 80 miles from Cliff Dwelers to Tuba City. Spent. Knees and muscles feeling a bit funny.

Mads will meet me here tomorrow and we plan to go visit his family in Utah.

Camera has officially kicked the bucket. Apologis for missing images - here should have been one of the crossing the green Colorado River. New camera on its way....

May 18th, 2010

Had bad dreams and a tent that nearly folded from a storm passing through last night. Snow fell again, but it was a comfortable ride back to Jacob Lake - the junction for the lowland. Winds were with me and I was able to have an early lunch before beginning the long downhill ride, spilling into the open country of the classical southwest. The road drops about 2000 ft in a fairly short distance but the place you leave and where you arrive seem worlds apart. Slush falling from the sky on top and an hour later I'm in a shirt and shorts sweating.

The wind was generous - covered 50 miles without noticing and was set on continuing another 50, but the appeal of the landscape had me pull off when I got to the settlement of Cliff Dwellers. Folks here were real friendly and I ended up camping behind a boulder close by. Apparently I wasn't the first, but it seemed to have been a while - the last name engraved into the giant rock was F.W. Fuller May 16 1879 - just over 200 years ago.

May 17th, 2010

Perhaps I partied too much last night- myself, sunset and shadows - or perhaps its the altitude, but today nearly took the hope away from me that I would ever leave the north rim plateau. It's been the plan that I was going to spend another night here, but when I talked with my friend Mads today who said that he was coming out from LA to visit me in three days I figured I better get a move on to get to the rendezvous that we've agreed on. The town of Tuba City. Just last night the lights of Tuba City were flickering in the distance. Look far away.

I got the bike out from the trail and on the main road, with a little help of some friendly people offering a push over a particularly rocky unbikefriendly hill. But I didn't cover more then 35 miles in total before having to accept the end of the day.

Stayed just outside the park boundary. A coyote was hunting on the snow, crashing down with it's front legs. Caught a white rabbit. I ate express pasta and fell asleep.

May 16th, 2010

I was transformed into a rag doll of relief when I say my name on the list of persons which the Danish Arts Council has chosen to support financially in the coming year. This means a great deal for the continuation of my journey and the completion of my project. Working the way I do is far from cheap with simple things as film and processing running up. I'll still be on my water and pasta diet and it's unlikely you'll see me driving a Cadillac, but at least I can get my tires changed if I need to or even replace this busted pocket camera that seems to only function if I bang it against a rock or other hard objects.

Cape Final was the location of the days celebration. It was a bit of a strain pushing the colossal bike through and over the hiking trail, but again I can say it was worth while. Cape Final is a collection of rocks and cliffs that seem suspended over the eastern part of the North Rim looking toward the Painted Desert. Here is one camp site. The point is situated so hight that with the setting sun in the back you can sit a watch the shadow of the earth engulf the horizon and see the arrival of night like a storm brewing in the far distance. The canyon far below is mesmerizing, with every change of the sun echoing in the multi colored rocks and cliffs.

This is an impossible task to convert into 2D, and my memory of this view and night will likely outlast any of the images... The reality of reality.

May 15th, 2010

After the frustrations of having to sleep on the blacktop in the frost - waiting for a gate to open, all the troubles are forgotten and every effort seems worth while.

The view from my camp extends out over the north rim looking south west until the view drops off the horizon. The activity here is limited, leaving me as the only person in the hiker/bike area with the best seat in the house.

The gates were opened at 5:30 and I rode the 12.5 miles from the gate to the campsite in early morning light and low temperatures. Wrapped long johns around my hands to keep them from freezing on the long descent. At the campground a sign reading "no availability" was posted. Lucky for me this doesn't count if you arrived on a bike or feet.

At the back country office I booked a camp site for tomorrow at Cape Final - it's suppose to be more secluded then this, but may be difficult to access with a bike as its a 2 mile hike to reach the spot.

A group of 6 hikes had just arrived from the south rim. More came up from the bottom through the day. I spent most of the sunny hours on a bench overlooking the canyon. At 3 p.m. I began a hike down. More of the long distance hikers were coming towards me as I was descending. Few looking like they were enjoying the moment, most wishing for the top after the long 1 day rim to rim hike. Stopped and chatted with a few.

I turned around far from the bottom, having hoped for a different scenery and possibility of other pictures. It was after 9 p.m. and dark by the time I made my way to the tent. The stars here seem clearer and more abundant then ever.

May 14th, 2010

My plan to reach the North Rim today/night has failed. It can be seen as having little importance if I get there today or tomorrow - but the fact of the matter is that the park doesn't officially open till tomorrow and for this reason the closed road is backed up with cars and rv's all wanting to be the first in. I prefer being off the road when this mob moves in.

Lucky for me, I was able to squeeze under the gates of road leading to the park entrance. I had the whole highway to myself, with only the occasional delivery truck, dropping off the last goods before the season start. The terrain changes as the elevation gains, reaching around 7000 ft. Up here the open tundra like landscape is still snow covered.

I figured that passing the gate into the park would be just as easy - this turned out to be wrong. Two hikes were walking the opposite direction on the road, having just crossed from the south rim. According to them there shouldn't be any problem getting in, but when I got to the entrance I was meet with a huge gate and chain. Thought I'd wait for a ranger to show, but this was wishful thinking. Sun set and a temperature plunged. Set up camp at the entrance, tied my tarp to the gate and soon feel asleep. Was woken some time around midnight by a ranger returning. The park would open at 5 am. It was around -5C. Garlic fingers from simple cooking.

May 13th, 2010

Morning dew hit hard and it was necessary to dry out the tent before packing and setting out. Spent time stretching and reading in my newly picked up book - The Sheltering Sky. No doubt Bowles was a great writer, but very very dark. Small portions.

Back on the road, passed the Arizona state line and Fredonia - stopped in at the National Forest Service to get the latest road conditions. Snow had fallen further up and parts of the national forest backcountry roads are still closed. The North Rim of the Grand Canyon said to open on the 15th. Two days seemed like plenty of time - but the climb to the plateau is steep and long. A flat slowed me down further and I decided to call it a day at La Ferve Overlook. Here was enough dry wood to build a good fire. Fear my pocket camera is living it's last days - seem to be a serous electrical issue.

lotto - ammo - gun - beer

May 12th, 2010

My brothers birthday. Following the traditional oatmeal and morning routine I managed to find skype and give Denmark a call. The family was gathered around dinner - my day had just begun. The ride out of Zion is a steep one, following a snake curving road to the tunnel where bikes arent allowed through. Managed to get a lift on the back of a pickup and continued my way out of the canyon and onto the grassy landscape above.

Weather's been acting up with rain falling in the distance, but fortunately bypassing my path.

Pulled off on a dirt road, that followed another canyon till I found an appropriate place to camp. Tired - soul still not fully arrived - although the landscape and surroundings are overwhelmingly beautiful.

May 11th, 2010

Woke around midnight as my poor green shelter was nearly flattened by wind from the north. Soon after the rain started falling. It continued through most of the night with temperatures down to 4 degrees C.

Sleep was limited and shallow.

Steve was packing up his car, getting ready to leave by the time I got up. We said goodbye, he drove off and it began to snow.

What the f***?! I just bought desert gear to survive the oven-like heat I was expecting, and now I was wearing my down jacket again...

The skies began to clear before noon, leaving the valley in a mystical fog, new waterfalls spilling off the sides.

I decide to hike to Observation Point, a higher spot then Angels Landing with views extending even further. Ground was still covered with snow as I reached the top.

Tomorrow I'll begin my way toward Grand Canyon - north rim. Supposedly it's still closed due to snow, but will open up on Friday.

May 10th, 2010

By the time I emerged from hiding it had been light for hours. Trucks were entering and exiting the highway, but no one seemed to pay any attention to the sleepy looking guy packing the dusty bike by the side of the road.

The snow covered mountains, dry desert valley and the mild morning air convinced me that I'd come to the right place. The starting point of the second leg. But I was out of water. The last few weeks away from riding have taken their toll and it will be a few days before I'm back in the rhythm and have my priorities straight.

The ride to Zion national park was a good introduction to the south west - it feels great to be back on the road.

Steve, a 62 year from South Carolina, pulled off to the side after passing me. Said the campground ahead was full, but that there was space on his site for me to set up. Again the unexpected kindness saved me from trouble. I reached the site, pitched my tent and went on a recommended hike to Angels Landing - a somewhat sketchy hike - the last bit with 1000 ft drop off on either side, with only sand rock and chains to hold on to. The view from top reaches all the way out of the valley.

It was getting dark by the time I made my way down and the stars were out when I got back to camp. Steve was getting ready for bed in the back of his Chevy but kept me company as I cooked pasta.

May 9th, 2010

After 14 hours of driving, $120 and a detour through LA I've finally made it over the high pass and into Utah. It's well passed midnight, having been dropped off by the side of I15 I've taken shelter behind some bushes, hidden away from the traffic. The air is dry and mild and a wind is blowing from the west. Morning will show where I am.

May 6th, 2010

Back in SF. The last two weeks have been like peaking ahead in a book I've only just begun.

None the less I'm very happy to have returned to where I left off.

Been packing my bags and now waiting for a ride that may bring me and my bike over the high passes of the Sierra's, which still are getting snow.

I cross my fingers to leave for the next stage this weekend.

More to follow...